What has happened to the predicted sun? The sky is looking decidedly grey, and unconducive to walking up to Češka koča mountain hut, perched mid cliff at the end of the valley. But Maya (who works in the kitchen) convinces us that it would be worthwhile, regardless of the conditions. And off Maria and I go, taking the bikes to get us to the trailhead.
There are several routes to the hut. So I approach a family of walkers and ask them why they have chosen this particular track. “Because it is the easiest” is good enough for us. We tag them from a distance, walking along a broad forestry track that initially inclines gently, and then becomes the usual heart-attack-inducing slope.
We cross a river of limestone scree fed by milky tributaries. I have been deluding myself all week that there could be any snow here but global warming has put paid to that.
Arriving at the hut I feel a lump in my throat. I honestly didn’t think I would visit an Alpine hut again.
It seems to be the destination of choice for every walker in the area. Young and old, clad in lycra, some with helmets, all are busy, drinking coffee and eating their lunches at the picnic tables.
The hut was built by the Czech branch of the Slovene Mountaineering Association in 1900 (“Češka” = Czech). The family that I am living with have a special relationship with it, having run it for many years. Although it has been renovated many times, the authentic mountain-refuge atmosphere has been preserved. Inside, it is so dark we can barely see our way to the serving hatch.
Above the hut, ruse the high northern walls of Kočna, Grintovec and Dolgi Hrbet. I spent a long while trying to work out which were official routes and which were crazy downhill scree runs – that would be impossible to scale.
We return to our bikes, taking a different route down. And I fail persuade Maria to use her walking poles – from me essential on the steep, skiddy surfaces!
Another sublime day.
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