12 February: Mallaig to Rum

Rain hammering on the window. An hour later it clears. First cloud-free views of Rum.

I meet fellow volunteer Leah in the kitchen. She is jetlagged from a flight from the Philippines. A wildlife biologist travelling for a year. Envy.

In the waiting room we meet Marthe, from Warsaw, a supply teacher based in Fort William, travelling to work with a group of 5 island children Monday to Thursday. “I wouldn’t live there full time.” 🤔 A 4-day round trip, 2.5 days teaching, some of the travel time paid.

Boarding, Leah tells me the crossing is 4 hours –  wot?! We’re going via Eigg and Muck. Free Small Isles cruise. Nice.

The guy I had down as a wayfarer at the bunkhouse is ahead of me in the queue. Looks like I got that completely wrong. Is he a fellow volunteer? (No)

The ferry launches. 7 minutes early. Considerable swell. I go on deck. As the distance from port increases I feel “at sea”, hideously far away from all things stable and within my control. Haven’t felt this way on a ferry before. Stormy skies. And then, suddenly, the stage is lit. Pools of gold on the ocean. The metaphor of transience is not lost on me. 

The moment of existential angst passes and I am entranced by the views towards Skye, and then Eigg. Squalls drift across the seascape. Magnificent clouds.

As we approach Eigg a young guy is taking even more photos than me. Yes, he is in the Rum team. Simon, a jobbing builder from Dudley who has quit a relationship with his cat-tied girlfriend in order to experience the world. He tells me about his camera lenses, and shows me photos of the adaptations he has made, to allow him to sleep overnight in his car. He continues with a catalogue of Workaway placements around Europe. We join Marthe, cross stitching in the upper lounge.

We sail on to Muck, then north via the west side of Eigg towards Rum. Limited visibility as rain sets in.

Alex welcomes us at the pier. Gives us a tour of the village once the heavy rain has abated. I ask about the future of the castle. It’s a troubled story of debauchery, poor judgements and ongoing uncertainty. £15 million to bring it up to spec. And no buyer on the horizon after a recent deal fell through.

The community – 20 adults, some here decades. Alex likely to move on to new pastures in the next year or so. But wants to complete his dark-sky project, which will add kudos and attract winter visitors to Rum. Some  islanders work for the community (eg the village shop), others work from home. A mixed economy. We will be working for Rum Enterprises, Rum Community, the school and an individual member’s house and will mark up a spreadsheet with hours so that the £40ppw food costs divided appropriately. I am happy to hear that I can borrow a waterproof.

We are housed in the bunkhouse, used for tourist accommodation in the summer. The living area has huge French windows fronting on to the loch. Voyeurs of the views of fast-changing weather. 

Intro talk from Alex. Us 3 newbies will join 2 already here, Amélie and Madeleine. Early morning swimming for those interested. 😱

Amélie has specific and valuable skills (she is a pro decorator), so her stint here will be longer than ours.

Alex gives us an overview of possible walks. There are many. And two bothies – that Simon and Leah are keen to experience. Youth energy is high. I am full of excuses!

We walk back down to the shop and buy a random collection of items based on individual impulses. That’s a third of our week’s budget in a blink and no idea of meals. 😳Hmm. I take a back seat. Simon offers to carry the box of ingredients back to base. Kind guy.